JBS MARINES free postage on these items in coral pack h you will receive an excellent way to start of or add to your marine tank this listing is for mixed corals ,critters and foods listed below: 3 mixed higher grade zoas. I offer soft, SPS and LPS corals along with coral care products so that you have everything you need to care for them. Sharing the most beautiful coral frags from around the world.
Coral Frags. Corals can be fixed to the substrate with coral glue. Here at Coral HQ, we make sure all our corals are healthy, from the mother colonies to the frags. We stock a wide range of fish available to buy instore , coral and big brand aquarium dry goods. It's known, coral frags grown in an aquarium are hardier than corals imported for the trade.
Why is this important? UK mail order corals. Browse Anemones View All Corals. Sold Out View. Salty Revolution stock a wide range of LPS coral frags and some soft coral colonies and frags available in store, and for UK delivery. Mail order corals. Below are live corals we usually have in stock at our Tempe fish store.
As we really do grow all our coral frags you can be sure that our Coral frags that are genuinely captive grown also represent the … Coral frag brackets and frag plugs are ideal for providing an easy way to grow coral fragments in your marine reef fish tank. All livestock covered by our Live Arrival Guarantee and supported by exceptional customer service. We offer some of the most colorful and healthy anemones on the market.
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Field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged by: Show: Light Purple frag Tyne, coral frags available to buy instore , coral Perfection specialise in all marine. Thanks for everything you do! I would like to house mostly Montipora species in this system. One of the features that I like about it is the relatively large 15 gallon refugium chamber large in comparison to other sump based fuges.
This seems to be a great unit but upon doing some research, it does not appear to be ideal. All of my system water will be traveling through the unit and from what I gather, refugiums usually do better with less flow. For SPS systems, a high turnover rate would probably be good but for this situation, it may not be ideal.
I believe that the would be more appropriate for the tank volume providing a turnover rate of 12 times as opposed to 8 however, I envision problems arising from this set up. For example, I'm almost sure that micro bubbles will be an issue with this much water velocity. If you have gph blowing out a single pipe into the bed it would be an issue. But if you have it go into say a skimmer chamber and then it flows over the width of the sump it will be diffused enough to keep the sand in place.
Tunze or Vortech pumps? I was cleaning my remora pro when I saw a smokey, milky white substance coming from the back of a large live rock.. The back of this rock is covered with a Macro algae big green plant that could be Halimeda don't think that's spelled correctly. I've always just left it in the tank to grow assuming it would suck up any excess nitrates in the water. The milky substance looked to be coming from the white appearing dead part of the plant but it could have been some sort of creature under the plant that I cant see.
It could likely be a spawning bivalve living in the live rock Anybody have an idea of what this could be? Of what I couldn't tell you exactly Are these large growing Macro Algaes "good" for my tank or should I cut it all out? But, you want them to keep growing. Thus, you should be trimming them down on a regular basis. Thanks for your help and opinion. I'm running out of ideas on why my corals are growing weird.
I have gallon 4'x2'x2' with tons of water flow with two Dart pumps, one used as a closed loop with a total of 11 returns between the two providing turbulent water flow. I have a calcium reactor, sump, and attached refugium. My lighting is 2xw with 14k spectrum and 1xw 20k spectrum in the middle approximately 10 inches above the water.
They are growing fairly quickly, however, they aren't growing up, they are encrusting. All of them are! Wherever I have placed the frag, I have huge blobs that have encrusted over the live rock. Now, I know some can encrust also, but all of them? Several of my frags are ORA frags and have seen pictures of parent colonies, however, mine never grow the same, same colors, but I don't have "trees", I have blobs!
I'd love to see some pics of this Any ideas? Do you think you could send in some pictures? It might be your water flow. The corals might just be anchoring down before they start growing up, especially if the water flow is really, really turbulent as you say. SPS no light! Now I say possibly because I feel it's still up in the air whether this new LED technology is better than our old fashioned metal halides.
As I expected delivery to be for today, I no longer have the Coralife unit. I do have a PC 24 watts but I doubt it has any use. Any suggestions? Thank you! I cleaned my overflow this weekend. When I put it back on my tank, I dislodged a very small amount of salt creep which fluttered down and landed squarely on my beautiful Merulina amp.
I immediately blew the undissolved creep off the coral using a turkey baster, but by the time I ran to get the baster and the time I blew off the coral the damage had been done. Can anything be done to heal this area? Thanks in advance for your help.
Assuming I maintain stable water parameters a big assumption I know I want to provide the best lighting for growth and color. I will be using metal halide but am not sure how many lamps to use. I can either go with two watt lamps or two watt and two watt lamps. Would the four lamp system be overkill for a 24" deep SPS tank?
The two W lights can work, but is too much also, in my opinion. Do consider simply lighting with two W lamps. The intended coral inhabitants of this aquarium are three or four small captive bred 'frags' of the Order Scleractinia, species specifically being considered are Acropora millepora, Seriatopora guttatus, Stylophora pistillata and Porites cylindrical.
The aquariums gross measurements are 36 x 18 x Allowing for rock and sand displacement the net volume is likely to be around 40 US gallons with the deepest parts of the tank around 15' below the surface of the water. Unfortunately lighting packages I have found do not seem ideally suited to such light dependent corals within what is essentially a 3ft long, rather narrow vessel. Tullock Jan that two Watt pendants are utilised over an aquarium of similar dimensions to my own for sustaining similar livestock Page I would greatly value your input on this issue.
Your choice of the Arcadia pendant should do the job depending on how high the fixture will be from the surface of the water, and keeping in mind your coral placement positions you have stated. Have you read here? Never mind, our site is not responding now, but do search "Reef Lighting" on our site, plenty of info and related links here. I have a 1 year old 75gal mixed reef, which is slowly becoming SPS dominated. MHs are on for 7hrs a day, and the PCs are on different times of the day for a total of 10 hours.
My SPS that are pink, red, purple, green, and orange are doing great in growth and coloration. All 3 of these are turning brown. Do sps that have blue coloration require higher temperature bulbs? In fact, they may require less.
Or it might even be what you're feeding them or something about your water parameters. Even in academic arenas, coral coloration is very poorly understood. Maybe because, in these perilous times, coral researchers don't really care so much if corals are blue or brown so long as they're not dying. In any case, your best bet is to find a blue colored coral that has been kept under lighting exactly like yours for at least several weeks better if months.
It's something of a myth that corals only brown from lack of light. They can also brown from too much light or for some other as-of-yet unknown reason. But in any case, the coral can still be very healthy, just not as pretty. If you just want some blue in your aquarium, you could think about a blue crocea clam. Feeding a dwarf lionfish and thinking of stocking SPS, sys. He didn't seem remotely interested. Is there something else that he would prefer to eat other than the gulf shrimp?
Perhaps some other live food for a bit I have 2 watt MH lights over a 75 gallon aquarium. The color temperature is K. Is this good lighting for SPS? Would this be sufficient? I add Fiji Gold twice a week and that's all.
Any thoughts on this? One last thing regarding my sump: I was thinking of removing the filter sponge and instead running the pipe down about an inch or two from the bottom of that chamber in the 20 gallon and filling it up with live rock rubble. This way the water would flow up through the live rock. Would the rubble, combined with a thick layer of Chaeto algae in the refugium section eliminate the need for the mechanical filter sponge? If needed, is that a good spot for it? Whew, I think that's it.
Sorry about how long this turned out to be, once I started I just couldn't stop. Thanks a ton you guys! Optimal SPS lighting? Scott F. Bioload is light with just a pair of clowns. Corals include 3 Acropora placed shallow , one Montipora and 2 Euphyllia Torch and a Hammer, placed deep. I originally had 10K bulbs but noticed my coralline algae growth was sparse, so my LFS owner recommended I change to 20K bulbs.
The Torch, in particular, is dying off. I increased the frequency of direct feedings with Cyclop-eeze, but with no effect. The recession may have been there prior to the color change and I possibly did not notice it. Questions: 1. Aesthetics aside, and all things equal wattage, etc Daylight "flavored" light is generally what works for most of the high-light demanding corals. On the other hand, it may simply be too darned "yellow" for you from an aesthetic standpoint.
I suppose that a 10,k bulb is the optimum combination of useful color temperature and aesthetics, IMO. With regards to the LPS, is the color wrong? Or, as I suspect, just too much wattage 6. These corals come from rather turbid water in nature, where light can be diffused somewhat. This is a really unnatural combination of animals, that could result in lots of problems down the line assuming the Euphylliids make it , in terms of allelopathic competition.
These are strong producers of such compounds, which can really damage the Acropora down the line. Bottom line, I'd dedicate a system just for them. Regards, Scott F. Re: Optimal SPS lighting? However, the lights, hood and ballasts were obtained used for a great price, sold by a college student heading for the Peace Corp Are the more expensive, German manufactured lights worth the price compared than the cheap Chinese imports?
There are some nice lighting units made in Asia- not all of them are poorly made and unreliable. I must say, however, that most of the German-made, European, and American units out there are very nice. The pricing can be a bit skewed at times, but in my experience, the vast majority of the high-end lighting systems are worth the money. The old adage about "getting what you pay for" generally seem to apply with lighting systems. In the end, you need to find a unit that fits your needs, budget, and quality requirements.
Is my lighting sufficient for Acro's and Monti's or should I upgrade to watt bulbs? Most of my knowledge in the hobby has come straight from you guys, so I'm of course very grateful. I'm new to SPS's and would like to do it right the first time to avoid costly mistakes.
I've bought the tank already, a gallon acrylic show tank, 72" wide by 30" tall by 24" deep. First up is lighting. I would think that three watt metal halides would be perfect; problem is my canopy lid is split down the middle into two separate lids. So to have a symmetrical look I'll need to install four bulbs. I know SPS corals like a lot of light but I'm concerned I might bleach some corals with watts of metal halides, not to mention four watt PC actinics that I was thinking of using.
So my question is, what combo of lighting would be best for the corals? Should I consider two 's and two 's? Or will four 's be ok? A tank with a depth of more than 28' is when they come into their own. For this reason I would use the combination of two 's and two 's.
I have room for it, question is, is it really possible to skim TOO much? And how much is too much? The G4 is rated at gallons, the G3 at But actual water volume will be much lower. On the lighting issue -- I believe that part of being a Conscientious Aquarist involves striking a balance between taking from nature and maintaining what is already there.
Using watt halides isn't normally necessary unless you're striving for quicker enforced growth, and this often doesn't materialize. However you will significantly increase the amount of pollutants affecting the wild reefs with excessive energy consumption and also spend more on this electricity which could be used to further benefit your tank from other additions. Cheers and that wasn't a lecture at you, it an opinion that I wished to share and found my incentive.
Their color in comparison to standard fluorescents, VHO, T-5, etc. I would like to introduce some acropora species in particular, they are just stunning. They are 'keep-able' but are shall we say less forgiving than what you are use to keeping. Also, whenever you can attain captive reared specimens over recently wild collected. Your nutrient levels will need to be kept at a minimum and you'll want mucho mucho mucho lots of water-flow if you do not already have it.
I'd suggest 'Corals' by Eric H. It is true that some of your current animals my have difficulty n adjusting to more intense lighting but with proper acclimation it is typically possible though for some there is such thing as too much lighting. Having said that I do not recommend mixing this type of cnidaria life long-term. I would not recommend this for someone with relatively little experience with these animals. I wouldn't. Either 75 or gallon reef. I have a chiller, skimmer, sump, and all the bells and whistles from my previous tank.
My question is should I use watt or watt lights, along with T5? Cost vs. T5 supplementation is optional, IMO. I am currently running a large array of just T5 lights on a new system, with good results, but I question its value as a supplement with halides, myself, unless it's purely for aesthetics. Ask some fellow hobbyists on the message boards and get a feel for what people who use them have to say.
I have read that most suggest K - K, would this be correct? SPS corals I am looking to add SPS to my system. My tank is about 6' long and about 3' high and 3' wide. How many watts? Or, do I need some MH bulbs. Please help. Thanks and happy holidays!!!
It is not so much the calcium, but more so the alkalinity. SPS can have perfect calcium, but without the proper alkalinity levels, they cannot utilize the calcium. Kalk doesn't raise calcium in a system, but rather maintains it. Over time, Kalkwasser will begin to drive the alkalinity levels down, thus defeating the purpose.
I'm not saying it can't be done with Kalk, but it is not the best route to go in my opinion. Would 2x96 pc be enough for any SPS, or should I get 4x Bubble, galaxy, brain, etc, would do well under 2x96 as well as all softies. The 4x96 would allow you to keep most anything. Read here and linked files above. I am trying to get the same colour out of my SPS at the time I purchased them.
Nitrate seems to be an important factor when it comes to SPS coral and it is one of the factors that contribute to colour. My nitrates sit close to the 0 mark. Will the food that is fed not help SPS to receive the same benefit that they receive from nitrates or what will without raising the nitrates?
Lighting also seems to play a very important path to the SPS well been for both health and colour. Light is rated in terms of watts per litre but what about a PAR rating. Sunlight is the "ideal" I am also planning on trying different lighting schemes throughout the tank. I would like to leave some recessed lighting on the ends so that private entreats exist for more reclusive fish to feel comfortable.
Since I do not want the whole thing lit up like the midday sun, I am only planning on putting watts of 20K metal halide on the middle third of the tank a length of about 32". If the SPS are put directly below the fixture ft deep, would this amount of light likely suffice? Let me know if this is ill-advised. How far should most Acropora be placed from each other?
I do prune them and make sure they do not touch each other. Is a distance of inches enough? Thank you so much! I've done it closer, and trust me- given time and the proper conditions, they'll still eventually grow into each other! Try at least 6", be patient, and you'll be rewarded with larger, healthier, and more colorful corals Assuming, of course, that you can provide for their other environmental needs!
Best of luck to you! Lighting For SPS I am trying to get the right light for my reef tank. I am planning on upgrading to metal halide lighting. My display is a 75 gallon tank that measures 48" long x 18" wide x 18" deep from the sand. I already have a couple Acropora frags as well as two Stylophora pistillata specimens. This is the kind of coral which I primarily wish to house.
I plan on using balanced lighting, most probably in the form of both 10,K and 20,K bulbs. Is this correct. Will this second fixture be sufficient for the more light hungry Acropora that I wish to grow? In bulb brands? You may want to check this company out. They carry the new Odyssea light fixtures that I've heard are nicely built and a bargain. See here One quick question. I have a g tank with 2 65w 10,K bulbs and 2 Actinic 65w bulbs.
Please let me know and if I need MH bulbs, which ones do you recommend? I've had a 55 gallon Zoa tank set up for the last 2 years and I've been very successful with it and now I'd like to upgrade to something a little more challenging. That being said, I have a few questions on lighting. I run activated charcoal regularly to help maintain water clarity and I skim aggressively, with that said, do you see an issue with the zoa's in a SPS tank?
You will have some chemical aggression taking place here and we want to minimize the chemical content in the water. If you are going to mix corals, stay away from the potent types like Galaxy, Elegance, etc.
There are approx. I use approx. All the rest of my parameters are good and the corals seem fine but not growing like I've head they should. The pH range is 8. Any suggestions would be appreciated. BTW love your column. Bob's Answer: Hey Mike, thx for the plug! IMO your parameters are fine both are near ideal and closely mimic the range of what's found in "the wild".
Also IMO boosting or inducing artificially high growth rates is not altogether a positive experience. Such animals are unnaturally "soft" and seem less hardy than ones that are cultured near wild rates. My advice? I wouldn't change a thing that you've listed.
You're doing mighty fine. I am setting up 29gal tank for use as an SPS grow out tank. I plan on purchasing frags, and smaller corals, letting them grow somewhat, then transferring them to my 75gal show tank it gives me an excuse to have another tank! My question concerns filtration. Is live rock needed in a tank with no fish I would plan on some snails, etc.
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I did attach pics, but there seems to be an issue with the forum. Culprit Member. This is going to be so cool! I'm betting massive zoa garden hmmmm? Hey what app is that? I know you use it a lot and get some great deals off it. Culprit its called shpock, some gems on there from time to time, I didnt even want another tank haha.
I'll check it out. I think you'll enjoy this one. I saw frag your zoas and make it a massive zoa garden. Il cure the huge amount of rocks in a jug haha, il also throw some bio media in the hob on my 32 to get established, then set it up when the rocks are ready, as they were live, now dead. I will just see what I can frag, I will be having the green palys as I find them to be interactive, was thinking a head of torch on the end of that branch lol, we will see.
Your jar is so cool haha. Tried replying to your thread yesterday, but the forum is playing up bad for me, I was just going to say how cool it was, and say I have no advice for the float valve haha. Good job on it though, was a surprise to see it out of no where. I know I just came up ith it out of the blue. Got the rocks curing BIG scale lol. Well actually, for me this one is exciting look, can't wait for this.
Esimm03 Member. That is so cheap, how do you find these deals? All the good deals seem to be really far away from me or have ended. Or fw, if fw I always fancied a pygmy sunfish, rather than the typical betta everyone would put in a 20 litre. Do a big school of small tetras like embers or green neons. YOu could fit 20 in there and a DG. Nope on the firemouth in a Oh I thought youmeant 20 litres lol. In a 20 gallon id do like culprit suggested.
Or aspistogramas? Also, I used to hate live bearers , but you can get some snazzy guppys. LJC Member. Culprit said:. I added the most liveliest dirty little piece of rock rubble from my 32 display to the curing Rocks, just to see what happens. Excited about this pico Reef, you can't really buy hitch hiker stuff, but I have a display full to bring this little thing to life.
A little gem in there haha. Encrusted indeed culprit, turns out its some sort of palythoa on closer inspection haha. Any updates? Thanks for a great site. I would like to identify the coral in the image attached.
Would you recommend I remove this coral altogether? I've seen many the new and even not so new hobbyist struggle to keep these organisms, especially as they try to amass aggregations of the differing varieties. It might be good to note that this Nano has watt metal halide lighting in addition to some nm blue LEDs.
The problem I have with these is not that they are difficult to maintain though Ricordea spp. These organisms are often very prolific -- and being very noxious and aggressive, often prove quite deleterious to the other sessile organisms in the system.
Many hobbyists do keep them, and ultimately it's up to you to decide if you want to take on the challenge, but with your system I would recommend something like corals from the genus Montipora. There are branching species that once grown out to some size, would make for a stunning display in a system such as yours. P alytoxin-like compounds and Marine Aerosols Zoanthid sel.
My family has experienced a similar situation, and I would like to share it with you, along with a recent article I found dated March 13, that directly ties Palytoxin-like compounds to marine aerosols. Most of this time was spent hunched over the garage sink with a lot of water vapor rising up into my face. That evening, my lungs felt inflamed.
The next day yesterday a cough developed and then a high fever followed with all of the usual aches and pains associated. The reason I am writing is because there seems to be a very clear correlation between the cleaning of the sump and the rapid onset of this illness. I read the article posted on your site regarding aquariums and human health, and most of it seemed related to skin infections. Do you know of diseases of the lungs caused by the inhalation of bacteria commonly found in substrate?
If so, I would greatly appreciate any references. I wish you good health. It has been also found in sea anemones, Polychaete worms, crabs and herbivorous fishes. However, algae from the genus Ostreopsis have been proposed as the possible biogenetic origin of this toxin as well as some potent analogues, e. Palytoxin-like compounds also cause human sufferings because of exposure to the marine aerosols, with symptoms that include fever associated to serious respiratory disturbs, such as bronchoconstriction, mild dyspnea, wheezes, and in some cases conjunctivitis.
Here is our story: Palytoxin Poisoning from Palythoa Polyps Dave and I want to share a bizarre experience we have encountered, should you know of anyone who owns a salt water fishtank, and finds themselves getting sick from the water. Dave recently purchased a 75 gal aquarium and then found a guy on Craigslist who was selling everything in his tank, as his doctor told him he was allergic to his fishtank. Every time the guy stuck his hand in the water he would get sick.
This sounded "odd", but we went ahead and purchased about 90 pounds of live rock, various sea anemones, etc. We really didn't know what the entire package included, but believed it was safe enough to transfer to our tank without gloves. That night Dave , Kent and I all became dreadfully ill for 4 days.
Dave had a fever for 3 days that peaked at All of us had muscle aches, stomach cramps, difficulty breathing, coughing, diarrhea, nausea and headaches. Only Dave had the fever. We recovered, only finding our family repeating this cycle every time Dave stuck his hand or arm in the tank, to clean or move things around.
After Dave's 5th fever of We contacted the owners of Saltwater City in Bellevue , one of which is a Marine Biologist, and the other, "Andy" a microbiologist and research scientist. He believed we must have poisonous Palythoa Polyps growing in our tank. They look like purple flowers. This turned out to be exactly the problem. We called the previous owner and asked him what his "allergy symptoms" were, and they were identical to ours.
We have since removed these deadly polyps, and are in the process of de-toxifying our aquarium. Andy, from Salt Water City had a case of this only one other time. Every time the guy stuck his bare arm in the tank, he would get sick with a fever. He removed his Palys and recovered. Also, we did find out that the previous owner who sold us this live rock package had the exact same symptoms as us!
Every time he stuck his hands in the water, he would get sick with a fever. He has since recovered. Trev Dakan, the owner and Marine Biologist of Salt Water City claimed that a couple times in his life, when we was cleaning out a "bad tank" he would get very ill with a fever.
He just thought he caught the flu. We have recently removed 4 LARGE clusters of Palythoa Polyps, and we also are removing all the sand in our tank, slowly, in sections to go bare bottom. The sand is in a bucket in our garage. If you were to stick your head in the bucket and breath in, you WILL find yourself coughing.
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|Montipora coral uk betting||Any updates? Seastars in the refugium that are consuming some of them particularly the sponges : I currently get rid of the predators when I see them, but should I keep them instead and allow them to act as a more natural control mechanism? Please help. Ive never seen it before either, its on the underside of the rock. Although most aquarium buyers focus on looks, a fair number are equally interested in the livestock and other living elements that will go in them. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. So my question is, what combo of lighting would be best for the corals?|
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|Binary options auto trader erfahrungen elefant||Log in or register to view. I increased the frequency of direct feedings with Cyclop-eeze, but with no effect. Good job on it though, was a surprise to see it out of no where. Recent searches:. I have a calcium reactor, sump, and attached refugium. We always have a selection of corals to suit all budgets.|
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|Montipora coral uk betting||Inside is decorated with coral-red Iznik tiles, mother-of-pearl, and ebony. Such animals montipora coral uk betting unnaturally "soft" and seem less hardy than ones that are cultured near wild rates. Just a few: water clarity yellowing agentsfood sources nitrogenproteins that reflect weak light into a coral None of the smaller grazing organisms and fishes I've come across as part of CUC crews seem to consume enough macroalgae to be worthwhile or be "safe" with sessile inverts, and I guess my tank is far too small for any of the larger herbivorous grazers, such as tangs, for example. They are durable, adaptable and great water quality monitors- just a glance gives me a basic idea of water parameters. What's new. My motto has always been that the easier a system is to maintain, the more it will be maintained.|
|Montipora coral uk betting||Also, SPS doing ok, but growing slowly. Most SPS corals will not accept food of any kind and rely solely on photosynthesis to provide their food, while many LPS corals do better with a supplemental food source. All recovered and thriving. Or fw, if fw I always fancied a pygmy sunfish, rather than the typical betta everyone would put in a 20 litre. Sharing the most beautiful coral frags from around the world. Palytoxin-like compounds also cause human sufferings because of exposure to the marine aerosols, with symptoms that include fever associated to serious respiratory disturbs, such as bronchoconstriction, mild dyspnea, wheezes, and in some cases conjunctivitis.|
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